I’ll Have the Deluxe and Supersize It, Please.
How do some of us become aware of what brands are cool, trendy, status, luxury, cheap, knock-off, while others don’t have a clue? Maybe we are the ones that don’t have a clue. Or maybe we have an appreciation for an art form that seems superficial or commonplace to a lot of people who do not see fit to give it any thought or value. And some of us are just label-whores who could care less about the soul or aesthetic of a brand and just wear it like a badge of status. We won’t comment on what that status is.
In our world of commercialization and mass production, there are many designer brands that have been so worn down that they barely have a glimmer of the original spark that made them special. In some cases, the luxury brands we know today were known for a specialty far different than we know them for now. For example: Gucci; leather, Hermes; equestrian and artisan leathers, Louis Vuitton; steamer trunks, Chanel: hats, bell-bottoms, layered costume jewelry. What- you think Madonna came up with that? Puleeze!
As popularity and notoriety of the different brands grew, their clients came to depend on them for quality merchandise and requested they expand into other areas or there was just a natural growth that occurred. While some of these brands made the decision to stay small luxury shops, others licensed their names to everything from cars to dog collars. This distinction did not always lead to a cheapening of the brand, sometimes it simply broadened it. The real eye-opener is where the money comes from. For the most part, all the licensing of perfume, accessories, watches etc., is what pays the bills and for the marketing that keeps the brand’s identity in the luxury column.
All this was a long way around to recommend a book that I found utterly fascinating, Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster
Deluxe, takes you through the story and growth of many of the well-known luxury brands. Dana Brown is unflinching and unbiased in her revelations of where some of those brands are today and how they got there – good and bad. Underneath it all, I still sensed that she held a respect and regard for the fashion business.
In Ms. Brown’s easy story-telling manner, you will learn how luxury leather-goods are produced in the same factory as well-known Private Label brands. How Chanel No. 5 came to be. Why actresses started being “styled” by designers instead of dressing themselves. The reason high-end perfume cost so much. The use of Logos for branding. That Caesar only wore silk togas. How mega-luxury-brand corporations were formed by scooping up the low-hanging fruit of floundering status names. The management and marketing of brand identity in magazine advertisements. That fashion is a business first, but must have the art to be successful.
As some of you may already know, I attended The Fashion Institute of Technology in New York for four years. So, for me, fashion is my livelihood, a business, an art and a passion. I am definitely not a major status fashion plate, by any means, but true luxury brands are important to me. Even though so many luxury brand name items can be acquired for not-so-luxury prices, at the heart, there is still a history and an aesthetic that I respect.
I realize that many find fashion superficial and trivial. But the truth is, fashion is one of the first ways we assert our independence as a child. It is a powerful force in social situations throughout our lives. Remember that Benetton Rugby Shirt, Calvin Klein jeans, Polo oxford, Reebok high-tops, Pappagallo purse you just had to have? Is that too much of a throw-back?…How about Manolo Blahniks, Seven for All Mankind jeans, Juicy Couture sweats? Ring any bells? Whether you actually acquired the objects of your affection or not, can you admit that at some point in time, fashion has had some impact on your life?
I am La Dolce Diva and I am addicted to fashion…are you?
What luxury item did or do you just have to have?
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October 28th, 2008 09:14
Jennifer,
When I was in my 20’s, a Dooney & Bourke purse, wallet and key fob was a must have. As I have aged, I don’t really have a must have. I live a simple, uncomplicated life in the country surrounded by wildlife, pets and woods. Comfy, casual is my M.O. because we do a great deal in the outdoors. I will say that I am a huge fan of Vera Bradley and own two Hipsters with matching wallet and checkbook cover. The comfort of the style and the bright hues caught my attention immediately. The days of lugging around a large purse that contains everything but my kitchen sink are over.
Lisa
October 28th, 2008 11:15
I now have 6 kids, 3 of which are girls~ There are no luxury items left for me~! They get em all. My dd just went to homecoming in a designer dress from a luxury store in Buckhead~ We actually bought two, cause we couldn’t decide which one~! I have to admit~ I DO still purchase luxury facial cleaning products, makeup and my weakness~ SHOES~! Ok and a Coach purse now and then~ but the girls, they are ALL divas~ they don’t know how to live w/o luxury~! I worry that I have taught them quality instead of quantity~! You will LOVE my middle daughter~ she’s a fashion Diva as well~Looking to go to fashion school upon graduation. Good Article
October 28th, 2008 17:52
Lisa- Thanks for your post:) Brands we covet don’t always appear in the glossy fashion mags….I keep asking Carhartt to come out with a pink or light blue barn coat. Simple, uncomplicated, but still a fashion item I wish for. I love my current army green with brown corduroy collar jacket..but I would love it more if it were PINK!
Sindy, Quality over quantity is something even my mother has finally realized. But quality doesn’t have to come at full price. That is why it is good to know your prices so you realize a good deal when you see one. It also helps to budget when you can so that you can splurge when you desire:) I would be happy to speak with your daughter about her interest in studying for a career in fashion. You may contact me through my website.
October 28th, 2008 19:14
Hi Jennifer~
I grew up with little in the way of materialism. I do remember dreaming of having a raincoat with the little whales on the inside like my peers did. Oh, and also straight-legged jeans. My mom had one pair, and I would sneak into her closet and wear them to school so I didn’t have to wear the out-dated boot-legged ones in my closet. I had to wear corrective shoes, so no chance for fashion there. I was trained to be frugal and stretch the dollar. At some point in adulthood I realized the importance of quality and “you get what you pay for” philosophy. That concept is hard to shake. I have always done for my children, but not as much for myself also. The last couple years I have decided to do some things just for “me” though. Last month I bought a pair of designer jeans, my first being last year. So, I have 2 pair of designer “anything”, which are jeans. I didn’t purchase them because they were designer though. I purchased them because they are comfortable, I feel good in them, and my husband thinks I look hot in them…LOL!
October 28th, 2008 21:39
Candance,
I respect and appreciate your comments and upbringing. Thanks for sharing.
I grew up 1 of 4 kids- we didn’t do without- but we definitely did not have designer apparel from the luxury stores. We shopped at Marshall’s when it was really off-price brands that were seconds or over-runs. I started sewing at 12 and became pretty good at it. I started sewing for myself, sisters and sometimes friends. So, I was really caught up in creating my own version of things. I eventually started a sewing business that grew into a bridal business. Then I applied to F.I.T., was accepted and moved to N.Y.C. without even a visit.
Boom, I was totally immersed in fashion as work, art, history and passion.
My love of fashion is not all about designer labels. For the most part, it is about the designer and making something out of a sketch or a bolt of fabric. It is the idea, the execution, the craftsmanship, the beauty. If you ever have the chance to go to a costume or designer exhibit, you will see how handmade the items look. Not in a naive way, but in an artisan manner. Garments were never pressed flat with knife creases. They were made to shape around the body. I think most people would be amazed at what Haute Couture looks like up close. What fine handwork it is. It is not perfect, but perfectly done.
I am rambling.
I just wanted to write a little about my passion of the art, not the business.
So – yes- I agree that stretching the dollar is important. Most people don’t have the choice of saving up to splurge on something. They have to save every day. I have been very lucky and I know that.
I was just trying to be a bit flip or clever when talking about my love of designer labels. And, yes, I can be superficial about them. But just like you, I usually buy for comfort. In fact, sometimes I will stay away from a certain brand or style if everyone else has it..
The point is, if we didn’t have designer we wouldn’t have ready-to-wear or off-the-rack (what most of us buy at Ann Taylor, Gap, Target, etc.)
What I am constantly amazed by, is the power of clothing. The power to allow ourselves to feel inadequate if we aren’t “in style”. The power to “feel pretty” or “Hawt!” in just the right LBD (Little Black Dress) or the perfect pair of jeans. How the party will be perfect if I have just the right pair of fabulous pumps. Designer or not
October 28th, 2008 22:58
My first “passion” (before shoes) or maybe I should call it a goal.. I wanted two things before I got married; a cashmere camel colored coat with a mink collar and a two week vacation in Hawaii. I achieved both! While I was in Hawaii it became a state..that was pretty exciting too.
I have never thought in terms of “designer” labels even with my diva daughter being a designer but I did benefit from her incredible dressmaking skills.
Now on to other dreams, passions and goals… the good life never ends!
Lana
October 29th, 2008 10:14
PRIIA, I almost hate telling you this…but I used to work for Sara Lee- who used to own Coach and I would get 50% off all Coach bags and they even had employee specials during the holidays…Don’t hate me. I will say that this was long before the days of all the new cute products in pink and purple and prints and logos…it was still the days of brown and black, maybe a little red. But still really basic!
October 31st, 2008 08:39
ok I’m gonna have to hate you~! lol~ dd has a collection of Coach bags, and I admit ~ I have a few as well as the grand daughter and my other daughter~ honestly, the best purchase I ever made was at the Coach Factory Outlet~ we bought 3 of the Large Travel bags (dd uses it as a school book bag) they were 500.00 each~ on sale 1/2 off, then go to the counter and got an AMAZING 25% more off~! Boy were we excited~ I should have gotten my self one~ cause they are priceless~and will hold any/everything~! BTW~ Jennifer, I did mention you to dd~ she is extremely excited~ Maybe she’ll email soon~! giggle